Let’s stir up some magic in the lab with today’s hot topic all about outsourcing your product formulations to a trusted lab.

If you’re building a beauty brand, you’ve likely asked yourself one (or more) of the following: “Should I hire a formulator or figure it out myself? Can I trust someone else with my vision? How do I know if they’re actually qualified?”. These are valid questions and you’re not alone in asking them.

Outsourcing your formulation is a major decision. It can be one of the most exciting and strategic moves you make as a founder, but it also comes with risk. Your formula is your foundation. It’s what turns your vision into a real, tangible, compliant, and sellable product. So how do you protect that vision when placing it in someone else’s hands?

What Does a Professional Cosmetic Formulator Actually Do?

A professional formulator or cosmetic chemist is not just someone who blends ingredients. They understand the science behind emulsions, preservation, stability, and compatibility with the skin, the hair, between ingredients and more. They are fluent in cosmetic regulations (at the very least the one from their country). They think about marketing claims, packaging interactions, shelf life, and the end-user experience. They formulate in line with GMP standards and prepare the data you’ll need for your Product Information File (PIF) and Cosmetic Product Safety Report (CPSR) or any other documentation you may need in your entry market. In short: they are not just DIY hobbyists, they are scientists and strategists.

Why Hiring a Cheap Freelancer Can Hurt Your Brand

Let’s be honest, it’s tempting to hire someone who offers a “custom formula” for €100. But what you often get is a rebranded base or copy-paste formula that doesn’t meet safety, regulatory, or performance standards. No samples are provided. And common issues can include separation, incorrect pH, ingredients outside legal limits, or formulas that won’t pass stability testing. Worse? You may not legally be able to sell the product at all. The result? Wasted money, recalled products, and a damaged reputation.

Outsourcing to a professional formulator may seem costly upfront, but it’s an investment that pays off. A skilled formulator saves you from reformulation fees, failed stability tests, or non-compliant products that could cost thousands to fix. Budget for expertise, stability testing, and compliance to avoid setbacks, and view outsourcing as a strategic step toward scalable, high-quality products.

What Smart Brands Do Differently

Smart beauty founders don’t just outsource to the cheapest bidder. They partner with formulators who understand the entire lifecycle of product development. These formulators have formal training in cosmetic chemistry or cosmetic science. They know how to interpret supplier documents, create with GMP in mind, and navigate the increasingly complex world of global compliance, from EU Regulation (EC) No 1223/2009 to MoCRA, AICIS and more. They also understand sensory design, marketing claims, and how to align a product’s performance with the brand’s values and vision.

Professional formulators don’t just create, they validate. They conduct stability tests to ensure your product withstands temperature changes, light exposure, and time without separating or degrading. They often work with a partner lab for all your required tests, such as challenge testing to confirm the efficacy of preservatives, protecting against microbial growth, but also patch tests, SPF testing and more. These rigorous processes guarantee a market-ready product that meets regulatory and customer expectations.

What to Look for When Hiring a Cosmetic Formulator

If you’re ready to outsource your formulation, ask the right questions. What is their educational background? Do they provide a detailed formulation brief and clear ownership terms? Can they supply full documentation including a phase breakdown, pH range, and INCI list (provided that the project includes transfer of IP rights)? Do they understand your audience and brand voice, whether that means vegan skincare, biotech actives, salon-grade hair styling products, or fragrance-free barrier support?

Also ask how do they handle regulatory compliance? Are they familiar with the regulatory requirements of your entry market? A good formulator is not just thinking about today, they are preparing your brand for scale.

Beyond technical expertise, your formulator should understand and embrace your brand’s identity. Share your mission, whether it’s sustainable sourcing, vegan formulations, or inclusive skincare, and ensure they can translate this into your products. For example, if your brand prioritises natural ingredients, confirm they are skilled in formulating with botanicals. A formulator who aligns with your vision creates products that feel authentically yours, strengthening customer trust and brand loyalty.

Understand Formula Ownership and Intellectual Property

Before you hire any formulator, ask about ownership rights. Do you fully own the formula once delivered? Are there any reuse clauses? Is the lab reserving the right to repackage or resell a variation to other clients? If your formulator disappears or you decide to part ways, can you take the formula elsewhere? Make sure the contract is clear on exclusivity, transfer rights, etc. A true custom formula should be yours to own, scale, and protect. 

Start With a Strategic Brief, Not Just an Idea

A strong formulator doesn’t just ask “what texture do you want?”. They ask about your target audience, key claims, preferred ingredients, packaging format, brand values, and even retail environment. Before outsourcing, prepare a formulation brief that includes:

• The product’s core function (e.g., barrier support, glow, clarifying)
• Intended skin or hair types
• Preferred ingredients (and exclusions)
• Regulatory markets (EU? US? Canada?)
• Packaging constraints (airless pump? glass jar?)
• Your brand’s ethos (vegan, minimal, Ayurvedic-inspired, etc.)

A clear brief leads to faster development. It also helps the formulator assess technical feasibility early, saving you time and money.

Building Long-Term Partnerships with Formulators

Hiring a professional cosmetic formulator is a key milestone, but turning that collaboration into a long-term partnership is where your brand truly benefits. A trusted formulator isn’t just a technician; they’re a strategic ally who supports your growth across reformulations, new product launches, regulatory changes, and even crisis response (because yes, it will happen to you as nothing ever stays perfect in life but having someone to accompany you in that journey can relieve a huge part of the pressure and stress).

To build that kind of partnership, start with clarity and communication. During the briefing phase, share your brand’s long-term goals, whether that’s scaling a vegan skincare line or expanding into inclusive haircare. Ongoing check-ins (monthly or quarterly) help you stay aligned and agile as your business evolves.

Make sure you have a clear contract from day one. Define formula ownership, confidentiality, and usage rights, specifying that you retain full ownership, even when changes are suggested. As your product range grows or you expand into new markets, revisit the agreement to ensure you’re covered.

A strong formulator relationship is more than transactional, it’s a foundation for long-term innovation, compliance, and scale. With the right partner by your side, your brand can grow strategically, batch after batch.

Before saying goodbye, let me leave you with my final thoughts!

Outsourcing your formula should feel like a growth move. The right partner will support your vision, protect your brand, and build a product that stands up, legally, functionally, and emotionally.

In this industry, what you don’t know can hurt you. But when you collaborate with someone who knows both chemistry and compliance, you’re setting your brand up for lasting success.

Ready to Get It Right From the Start?

We help indie founders go from concept to compliant, high-performance products that stand out in crowded markets. Email us at contact@mbcosmeticslab.com, book a call and let’s map your formulation journey, from lab to launch, together!

Here’s to formulas that work and brands that thrive!

From My Lab to Yours! 

Rose