Let’s stir up some magic in the lab with today’s hot topic: growth factors in skincare and how to use EGF and FGF in an elegant, effective anti ageing cream.

Growth factor skincare has become one of the most requested categories from advanced beauty brands. Founders want formulas that feel luxurious, sound scientific and give visible results on firmness, wrinkles and texture. To get there safely, you need more than marketing language. You need to understand what growth factors are, how they behave in a cream base and how to build a formula that supports them.

In this article, I will walk you through what EGF and FGF actually do, how to source and protect them, how to design a facial cream around them and how to handle claims for growth factor skincare without drifting into drug territory.

What Are Growth Factors in Skincare and Why Are They Trending?

Growth factors are naturally occurring proteins that help regulate important cellular processes such as cell growth, repair and communication. In skincare they are used for their potential to support skin renewal, improve texture and soften visible signs of ageing when formulated and positioned correctly.

Two of the best known examples in growth factor skincare are:

Epidermal Growth Factor (EGF)
EGF is a small protein that interacts with specific receptors on skin cells in the upper layers of the skin. It is a polypeptide that binds to EGFR (epidermal growth factor receptor) on skin cells, particularly keratinocytes. It stimulates cell proliferation, migration, and differentiation, promoting epidermal repair and renewal. In cosmetic terms, EGF is associated with smoother looking texture, more even tone and a fresher surface appearance. It is often highlighted in products that focus on skin renewal, enhance skin firmness and radiance. 

Fibroblast Growth Factor (FGF)
FGFs, such as FGF 1 or FGF 2, are linked to fibroblasts in the deeper layers of the skin. They are associated with collagen and elastin stimulation, as well as hyaluronic acid production, which are critical for skin structure and elasticity. FGFs support dermal remodeling, improve skin density, and aid in repairing photo-damaged skin by restoring dermal resilience. In skincare positioning, FGF is usually placed at the heart of anti ageing or “dermal support” creams.

Mechanism in Skincare:

• EGF works primarily in the epidermis (closer to the surface), enhancing barrier function and surface renewal, accelerating epidermal turnover and barrier repair.
• FGF targets the dermis, to support structural protein synthesis by boosting extracellular matrix production for anti-aging benefits.

Together, they synergistically address fine lines, loss of elasticity, and uneven texture, making them ideal for premium anti-aging creams. But if you’re going to use these claims, you’d better have your data lined up. Claims like “promotes skin renewal”, “reduces wrinkles” or “enhances firmness” align with growth factor benefits, but must comply with the regulatory guidelines for cosmetics in your country to avoid drug-like claims. You must also be able to back them up by evidence, consumer trials, scientific literature, etc.

Translating Growth Factors Into Real Skincare Ingredients

The jump from “growth factors sound amazing” to “this is a stable, cosmetic ready ingredient in my formula” is where serious formulation work begins.

Sourcing EGF and FGF for Cosmetic Use

Most growth factors used in skincare are produced using biotechnology, through fermentation in organisms like E. coli or yeast. On the INCI list you will usually see them under names such as sh Oligopeptide 1 (for EGF) or sh Polypeptide 11 and related structures (for FGF types), depending on the supplier.

You will also find:

• Biotech peptides that mimic some pathways of growth factors, but are not true growth factors.

• Plant derived “growth factor like” extracts, positioned as a more natural option, usually with softer claims.

• You may also consider synthetic peptides that complement growth factor pathways, like palmitoyl tripeptide-5 or acetyl hexapeptide-8. These can be more stable and cost-effective but aren’t true growth factors.

For serious growth factor skincare, most high performance brands choose well documented biotech actives with clear INCI names, specification sheets and efficacy data, then add botanical support actives for story and synergy.

Stability and Delivery for Growth Factor Skincare

EGF and FGF are proteins, which means they are sensitive to pH, temperature and certain formulation environments. To keep activity as intact as possible until the product is used, you need to design the base and process around them.

Key points when formulating growth factor skincare:

• Keep pH in a mild range that suits both the skin and the peptide.

• Avoid unnecessary high heat and very long heating phases. Add sensitive peptides in the cool down.

• Avoid harsh surfactants, strong oxidisers and high levels of enzymes that could degrade the protein structure.

• Consider encapsulation technologies such as liposomes, nano carriers or other delivery systems that your suppliers offer.

If you ignore stability, you may still have a lovely cream, but with zero peptide activity left when it reaches the consumer’s skin.

Designing an EGF and FGF Anti Ageing Cream Base

A growth factor cream should feel as premium as the science behind it. That means pairing EGF and FGF with a well built base that supports the skin barrier, delivers hydration and aligns with your brand’s sensorial identity.

Texture and Base Choice

Most growth factor skincare products are light creams, gel creams or fluid emulsions that sit comfortably under SPF and make up. The base should:

• Spread easily, with no dragging or balling.

• Absorb cleanly, leaving a soft, conditioned finish rather than a heavy film.

• Sit well in both morning and evening routines.

You can achieve this with modern emulsifier systems, a balanced mix of esters and non comedogenic oils, and humectants that draw water into the upper layers of the skin.

Supporting Actives That Make Sense

Growth factors work best in a supportive environment. Think of the rest of the formula as a team around EGF and FGF. Good partners in growth factor skincare include:

• Hydrators such as glycerin, low and medium molecular weight hyaluronic acid and panthenol to support plump, comfortable looking skin.

• Antioxidants such as niacinamide, vitamin C derivatives and/or ferulic acid to help protect skin from oxidative stress and complement the anti ageing position.

• Barrier supporting lipids such as ceramides, phytosterols, squalane and selected plant oils to keep the skin resilient and comfortable.

• Complementary peptides like Matrixyl type peptides or signal peptides that support firmness and smoothness claims.

The final formula should still feel coherent and pleasant, even if a consumer never reads the word “growth factor”.

Claim Strategy for Growth Factor Skincare

Clients who request growth factor skincare are usually aiming for high performance, visible anti ageing results. The language you use to describe those results needs to stay within cosmetic scope and match the evidence you hold.

Typical cosmetic level claims that fit growth factor skincare when supported by data are along the lines of:

• Improves the appearance of fine lines and wrinkles.

• Helps skin look firmer and more elastic.

• Supports a smoother, more refined looking texture.

• Promotes a more radiant, revitalised complexion.

Avoid phrases that clearly describe internal physiological change, such as “stimulates cell regeneration” or “boosts collagen production in the dermis”, unless you are prepared to move into drug/medical product territory.

Where possible, support your marketing story with a mix of supplier studies, in vitro or ex vivo data, and your own consumer perception tests. This is especially important for premium price points in the growth factor skincare space.

A Short Regulatory Reminder

Regulations will vary slightly across regions, but a few principles are constant. If you sell growth factor skincare in the EU or UK, you must treat EGF and FGF like any other cosmetic active: use the correct INCI names, include them in your safety assessment, ensure you have sufficient quality and purity documentation from your supplier and hold a complete product information file. Claims must comply with the cosmetic claims regulation and remain truthful, supported and within cosmetic scope.

In the United States and other markets, growth factor skincare is still considered cosmetic as long as you stay away from drug claims and presentation. For example: “Improves the appearance of skin texture” is fine. “Stimulates cell regeneration” is not. Labels must meet the local cosmetic labelling rules and you are responsible for the safety of the finished product in normal and reasonably foreseeable use (which means, don’t skip stability and preservative efficacy testing!).

I hope you found this post as interesting as I did and before we say goodbye, let me leave you with my final thoughts!

Growth factors in skincare can give a strong, science led edge to an anti ageing cream, but they are not magic on their own. To create a growth factor cream that really performs, you need good sourcing, a stable base, a realistic claim strategy and a smart supporting cast of hydrators, antioxidants and barrier lipids.

If you would like support in designing your first growth factor cream, screening EGF and FGF suppliers, building a compatible base or preparing your documentation so the formula is both beautiful and compliant, our team at MB Cosmetics Lab can help you take the project from idea to finished product! Contact us today for more information!

Here’s to formulas that work and brands that thrive!

From my lab to yours,
Rose